I've bought some studio lights, Interfit 150ex. I've been firing them with the pop up flash on the camera. I've noticed the images look a little underexposed, even when the control is on full. When I use the cord from the camera to the lights, the exposure is much better. Why is this? My settings remain the same on the camera. In fact the control on the lights have to be turned down otherwise they're too bright! Any info would be appreciated.
Nick
Sounds like your camera is metering for the scene as is, not with 2 extra flashes firing. Have you tried manual settings, 160-200 shutter speed and tweak the aperture or adjust the flashes until it looks right.
Simon
I am using manual mode to ensure the settings remain the same. It's just wierd that using the pop-up flash to trigger the lights results in under exposure, but using the cord results in brighter images. All things being equal the exposures should be the same. If anything when the pop-flash is used I would expect them to be brighter as the flash is acting as fill-in. It doesn't make sense as the studio lights are obviously not controlled through ttl and are reducing their output. The settings I've been using are 1/200 at f/8.
Nick
Sorry Nick, i will go finish the bottle i started. My theory would have caused overexposure as you say.
:beer:
My first thought is that it is a "Pre Flash" issue.
Your pop up flash could be sending out a pre flash to judge the requirements of the main flash. Have/can you set the pop up flash to operate as a trigger only?
If there's a pre flash, it will be this that fires your studio lights and so they will not be syncronised with your shutter, hence the under-exposure.
This all happens in milli-seconds and you won't see it happen.
Hope that makes sence.
Graham. :)
I've put the camera in both commander mode and manual (set on the lowest output) and to no avail. It's not too much of a problem as I will eventually get wireless triggers, but it's nice to know what is happening. Thanks for your thoughts
Nick
If it's under exposed, it sounds as if the external flashes aren't firing? Is it possible something is blocking the light been received by the external units. ???
I'd say just use the wire until you get proper wireless triggers.
Sounds like pre-flash is triggering them to me - but I'm not a Nikon shooter, so don't know how that works.
It does sound as if using the pop up flash as a trigger is resulting in a firing delay. It will only be milliseconds, but seems to be enough to cause a problem.
You say you are using manual settings - what shutter speed are you using? If you haven't already done so, try dropping it to 1/90 or even 1/60 second and see what happens.
And then get onto eBay and order some PT-04Ms (the 'M' bit is important) or if you're feeling a bit more flush a Yongnuo RF602 set up. If millionaire order Pocket Wizards ;)
If you are using Nikon`s CLS to fire them it will deffo be because the pre-flash is triggering them. CLS only works with compatible Nikon flashes not third party / studio lights and will not mix with non-Nikon gear.
Another trigger alternative a bit more again than the Yongnou triggers are the Phottix Stratos which have a pass through to allow TTL when using Nikon flashes and an SB800/ 700/ 900 as commander but also have a better build quality and greaty for batteries as they are standard. I use CLS with my sb800 and sb600s but just got some triggers for when in conditions that CLS won`t work (rare) and using other flashes / lights.
I think Jinky has hit the nail on the head. Thanks for your responses. Time to get some triggers!
Nick
Quote from: nickt on February 14, 2011, 06:07:36 PM
I think Jinky has hit the nail on the head.
Ahem. :P
Oh yes, Graham aswell :doh:
Nick
If this is a pre flash issue you would see the preflash through the viewfinder as it would fire as the mirror was swinging up. On my Olympus I see the pre flash if I am using the pop up flash and to use studio lights I use a wireless trigger that cost about a tenner on ebay. You dont need to spend a fortune to go wireless but you can if you wish.
You don`t see it using CLS. You`d swear it was going off the same time but the results tell you different. With CLS you just canot mix Nikon / non Nikon flashes / strobes and get a result